Once the skirt and bodice are assembled it’s time to start on the sleeves, which are in essence elaborate tubes of trim. There is no curving or particularly fancy shaping, but there are trims, so much trim and thus so much hand sewing…
This post covers the trims for the bodice and the skirt, for the other parts of the costume head to the following articles:
Materials
- Metallic Crinkle Organza
- Stretch mesh netting (0.5 yrd)
- Gold/White metallic lace (this was purchased at Jo Ann but does not appear to be available any longer)
- Flora Silver Trim
- Silver Cord Wide
- Open peaked lace trim (0.5 yrd)
- Flat silver ribbon (0.5 yrd)
- Flat gold ribbon(0.5 yrd)
- Thin silver cord (0.5 yrd)
- Silver bugle beads
- Pearl Dangle trim (1.5 yrd)
- Small Gold Appliques
- Large Gold Appliques
- Silver gimp trim
- 5mm Rhinestones
Some materials don’t have amounts listed as they are used in the bodice/skirt and their trims, and the amounts needed are included there.
Construction
The top of the sleeve is a poof or metallic crinkle, this length is the same as the arm hole, and it was 8 inches long at the shoulder seam and 6 inches long at the underarm, giving enough for seams and puffing out once the ties were attached. The bottom of the puff was pleated to match up with the smaller netting section. Prior to attaching I serged the top and bottom edges and the seam.
Before attaching the netting tube I added the embroidery, there were 4 silver cord swirls on the netting, I used a slightly stretchy sports netting. The silver cord was hot glued after I drew the swirls directly onto the fabric in pencil (based on the sketched template). The swirls were about 4 inches across. I then hand stitched the bugle beads to make the leaf like shapes.
Next I stitched the row of silver ribbon, gold ribbon and the final top layer of the open lace, once in place I sewed the entire section into a tube and attached it to the upper crinkle poof. The peaks of the lace were then machine stitched in place to the upper poof.
Next was the elbow metallic crinkle poof, it was 6in tall and long enough to give it plenty off puff, This tube was then pleated to match up to the bicep and forearms netting. This was serged and then machine stitched to the bicep and forearm netting sections.
The forearm netting section was made by essentially tracing around my arm, starting wider by the elbow and tapering at the wrist, before flaring again to go over the hand. The edge is curved such that is is longer on the back of the hand and shorter on the palm, skimming the knuckles and the base of the hand respectively. I added the edging of gold lace before I serged the two sides together, I used just the white/ gold lace, but regardless it should be the same lace that is used for the neckline v. I then machine sewed the silver gimp trim at the forearm and elbow seam.
With all the major portions assembled, it was time to add the hand stitching finishes:
- Pearl dangle trim was hand stitched at the base of the gold ribbon on the bicep.
- A row of floral silver trim was added at the bottom of the bicep netting, onto the elbow poof section. This was structured in the same way as on the neckline, a central flower and 2 leaves. With a hand stitched row of silver cord above it.
- Another row of pearl dangle trim was added below the silver gimp trim on the forearm.
- On the forearm netting I added the small and large gold appliques.
- A final row of pearl dangle trim sewn to the wrist cuff.
- As I was using stretch mesh I was going to be able to slip it over my hand and thus would not need a seam or fastener. Instead I glued two rows of thin silver trim on the inner forearm sleeve to imitate the closure, and hand stitched a row of pearls.
- Finally I added a number of rhinestones, one in the center of the large gold medallions, and at the points of the lace peaks.
Once completed I sewed the sleeves onto the bodice. Inserting 4 lengths of cording, evenly spaced around the sleeve shoulder opening, these would then be used to tie the sleeve closer to the bodice. With the sleeves attached the dress is complete!
Next it’s time for the accessories!
