A dress is only as good as its support, or something like that… In this case the Breathe dress needs a non decorative under corset to support the wings and other bits (boobs, I’m talking about boobs). As an empire waisted dress the corset isn’t required to cinch the waist at all, however, the as dress can be worn off the shoulder having a fully boned corset will do more to keep things lifted and in place than a strapless bra. Similarly, the construction of the bodice front means the dress will look best is the chest is flat across, which a corset will do.
This post covers construction of the corset, for the other parts of the costume head to the following articles:
The level of structure in the corset will vary depending on your own personal needs, but boning in the back and a sturdy material is recommended regardless, to allow the wings to stay in place. I made my corset from scratch, and it is loosely inspired by historical designs. It won’t be seen so I wasn’t too worried about authenticity, just support.
Patterning
- Pattern Paper
- Ruler
- Pencil
- Tape Measure
- Muslin
To make the pattern I followed this tutorial with a few adjustments:
- I added straps by extending the top seam on the side front pieces. The straps were set far apart on the shoulders, as even when the sleeves are up on the shoulders, the neckline has a very open decolletage. I made the straps extra long so they could be adjusted to the right size later.
- In the back I made the bottom of the corset about 1 inch below the waistline, so the final design doesn’t flare over the hip.
- I tapered the front of the corset to a rounded point just above the hip line, about 3 inches below the natural waist.
- I removed the center front seam so the corset laces in the back only.
A copy of my corset pattern can be found on my store.
After creating the paper pattern pieces and cutting them out, I made a mock-up in muslin and sewed it all together to test for fit. I was happy with the results without any major alterations so I used the paper pattern as is.
Construction
- Coutil/Duck Canvas
- Muslin/ Quilting Cotton
- Interfacing
- Boning (lengths depend on the length of the channel)
- Twill Tape
- Bias Tape (single and double fold)
- Eyelets or Embroidery thread
- Lacing (rat tail, cording)
Follow the steps below for construction of the corset from the pattern:
- Cut out 2 copies of each pattern piece in both the coutil and the cotton
- Cut out 2 copies of each pattern piece with smaller seam allowances from the interfacing, smaller seam allowances help the seams be less bulky but still stable.
- Iron on the interfacing to the cotton
- Sew the lining pieces together and the outer pieces together along the side seams, but not at the shoulders (these will need adjusting).
- Press the seams flat.
- With wrong sides together, baste front to the lining at the top and bottom edges. You will be using bias tape to finish the edges, so there is no need to turn the seams.
- Pin twill tape in place at the waist on the lining (the smallest point that will cinch the most), and stitch in place through both lining and outer fabric. This stabilizes the area of the corset that will take the most strain.
- Check the fit, it will be pretty tight, but now is the last chance to make any adjustments. This is also where you trim the neck and waist to the right length and shape, and check the fit of the shoulders.
- Stitch the shoulders together, right sides together, you may need to unpick some of the basting to do so, re-baste after if that is the case.
- Using the single fold bias tape sew a channel along each of the seams, the bias tape will be top stitched directly to the lining fabric, through the outer layer as well.
- Feed boning through the channel, you will want about a half inch of space at the top and bottom to finish with bias tape. It is also ok for the boning to be shorter than the channels.
- Finish the neck, sleeve and bottom edges with the double fold bias tape.
- Add eyelets about 1 inch apart on the back edges to lace the corset together. Small metal eyelets or hand finished with embroidery thread will both work.
And voila!
Onward to the dress part 1!
