So you’ve found the perfect pattern for your next project but it’s not in the right size, well never fear there are lots of different ways to resize a pattern to get just the right fit.
No matter which method you use, I always suggest making a fabric mock up and fitting your new pattern you can find more information about this in my YouTube tutorials.
Slash and Spread
Slash and spread is versatile technique that allows you to make small adjustments to both the height and width of the pattern, adding or removing material exactly where you want. That being said it’s also a more complicated and involved technique that you might not need if you’re looking at relatively small changes.
The basic idea of slash and spread is you cut apart the pattern pieces into smaller parts, then move those parts apart (spread) or together in order to add or remove the desired amount of material from the final garment.
Watch my video where I demonstrate how to use slash and spread to increase and decrease measurements.
You can also read really really good write up of the method by Melly Sews.
Changing the Seams
Shrinking or expanding the pattern at the seams is basically a simpler version of slash and spread. You won’t be able to get as fine of an adjustment as you can from slash and spread, but it is generally simpler to do. Essentially with this method you add or remove material at the seams based on how much smaller or larger you need the garment to be.
Kamui cosplay has a great video detailing how to use this technique.
The % Change
Probably the simplest but least accurate or adjustable method. This is for when you have a PDF or printable pattern, rather than a commercial one.
With this method you determine the percentage smaller or larger you are compared with the pattern measurements. To do this, take your measurement and divide it by the pattern measurement, then multiply by 100 to give a percentage. For example, if you have a 30in waist and the pattern is for a 28 in waist – (30/28)*100 = 107%. Make sure you compare like measurements to like, such as waist to waist and hips to hips. I suggest comparing a few measurements. Once you found your largest percentage (even if it is less than 100%), print the PDF pattern out at that percentage.
Bear in mind, people tend to increase or decrease in width more than in length so you might find the pattern is no too long or too short in several places. This technique is best if you have a big difference with the pattern size and then combine with one of the other techniques.
Grading
Alternatively if you have a commercial or already graded (comes in multiple sizes) pattern, you can also grade the pattern yourself to add in a smaller or larger size. Essentially with this you are drawing a line through the corners and notches of the already graded garment and then connecting the dots.
Itch to stitch also has a solid write up for how to use this method of grading.
